When disaster strikes while you’re away from home — whether it’s a blizzard that strands your car, a citywide blackout, or an earthquake that knocks out cell service — the only thing that really matters is getting safely back home. That’s where a get home bag comes in. Unlike a full bug out bag meant for longer-term survival away from your primary residence, a get home bag is designed for speed, mobility, and self-reliance over 12–24 hours. It’s the kind of kit you can keep in your trunk or under your desk — light enough to carry, but stocked with the essentials that can turn a scary situation into a manageable one.

The gear inside your get home bag doesn’t need to be fancy or expensive, just functional. The illustration above highlights the core items every man should consider packing. If you work in business casual or professional attire, it’s also smart to include a change of rugged clothing as well: durable pants, a tough shirt, and comfortable shoes can make all the difference if you need to walk miles to safety.

Create a get home bag with these supplies and when things go sideways, you’ll be ready to slip the pack over your shoulders, stay calm, and make your way home.

Illustrated by Ted Slampyak

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

In an age when every tap, text, and location ping is tracked, there are times when a little anonymity goes a long way. Whether you’re traveling through a dicey region or working on a top-secret project, a burner phone can provide a level of privacy and security that your primary device simply can’t. The ability to buy and use one under the radar is a bit of know-how worth having — even if you never need to use it.

These days, you can actually purchase a smartphone that’s meant to be a burner and has access to the internet and apps. But they’re more expensive, often require some type of account setup or sign-in, and have shorter battery life. It’s best to stick with the simplest available option like the old school flip phone or brick-style model that doesn’t do much besides calls and texts. The fewer features, the fewer ways your anonymity can be compromised.

Using a burner phone effectively takes more than just buying a cheap prepaid flip phone, though. To stay truly off the grid, you need to understand how and when to use it, what not to do, and how to properly dispose of it when you’re done. Follow these steps above to ensure your short-term phone serves its purpose: keeping you connected when needed, and untraceable when not.

Illustration by Ted Slampyak

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

An important part of manhood has always been about having the competence to be effective in the world — having the breadth of skills, the savoir-faire, to handle any situation you find yourself in. With that in mind, each Sunday we’ll be republishing one of the illustrated guides from our archives, so you can hone your manly know-how week by week.

In a wilderness survival situation, you may need to cut down a small tree. Maybe you need to make a debris shelter and need a long ridge pole to get it started. Or maybe you need some logs for creating a parallel fire lay (one of the 6 fire lays every man should know).

But what do you do if you don’t have an ax or a hatchet?

Well, as long as you have a solid survival knife on you, you can still fell a small tree.

You want to use a knife that’s sturdy and isn’t hollow ground. A simple mora knife is ideal for this job. It can take a beating.

You’ll need to find a sturdy stick too. Then, by pounding the back of the knife with it, you can cut small wedges out around the tree until its structure is sufficiently compromised for you to push it over. 

This technique takes some time and sweat, but it works if you need to fell a tree in a pinch.

Like this illustrated guide? Then you’re going to love our book The Illustrated Art of Manliness! Pick up a copy on Amazon.

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

An important part of manhood has always been about having the competence to be effective in the world — having the breadth of skills, the savoir-faire, to handle any situation you find yourself in. With that in mind, each Sunday we’ll be republishing one of the illustrated guides from our archives, so you can hone your manly know-how week by week.

Your snoz is full of blood vessels, and nosebleeds happen when they incur some kind of damage. That damage can come from vigorous nose picking or blowing, outright injury (as in taking a punch to the face), or, very frequently, from exposure to dry air (whether via the outdoor climate or indoor heating). Nosebleeds are particularly common in children ages 2-10, but can occur at any age.

We don’t often see our blood outside of our bodies, so that when a nosebleed occurs, it can feel a little alarming. But unless nosebleeds are extraordinarily heavy, accompanied by other symptoms like high blood pressure and trouble breathing, last longer than a half hour, and/or happen more than twice a week, they’re almost certainly harmless. They’re just messy and annoying, so that you want to stop your own, or your kid’s, as soon as possible, by following the instructions above.

To prevent future nosebleeds, it helps to keep the nasal membranes moist by putting a humidifier in your home/office, using a saline spray 2X a day, and/or applying Vaseline inside the nostrils. More frequently occurring nosebleeds may need to be addressed through cauterization.

Illustration by Ted Slampyak

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

Over its long history, the whip has been tool for a variety of men.

Cowboys in the American West, South American gauchos, and herders around the world carried whips to move cattle and sheep. The crack wasn’t meant to strike the animals but to startle them with sound, nudging the herd along without contact. Out of this tradition came the “stockwhip” and the “bullwhip.”

Teamsters and coachmen once used whips to keep their horses in step. The lash might brush a flank, but more often the crack alone was enough to guide a team down the road. Cavalries often issued short whips to horsemen and pack drivers as part of their kit.

By the 18th and 19th centuries, the whip moved from utilitarian use into the realm of spectacle. Circus trainers used them to tame lions and tigers, while trick-whip artists developed flourishes that showcased control and precision.

Later, pulp heroes carried them alongside revolvers, turning the whip into a symbol of adventure. Half tool and half weapon, it was ostensibly useful for a variety of tasks: latching onto beams or branches to swing across gaps, coiling around small items to grab them, knocking an object out of someone’s hand, cracking to intimidate and keep foes at a distance, or lashing an opponent directly. (Some of these techniques, of course, work better and are easier to execute on screen than in real life.)

If you want to harness your inner rancher or treasure-hunting archeologist, this illustrated guide will get you started with the art of whip cracking. Whip cracking is just physics: you send the energy of your arm into the thong, it travels down the length, and accelerates until it breaks the sound barrier and creates that satisfying “POP!”

Every whip-hand starts with the cattleman’s crack. It’s a simple up-and-down snap that will give you a grin-inducing pop, and help prepare you to raid tombs and fight Nazis.

Illustration by Ted Slampyak

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

An important part of manhood has always been about having the competence to be effective in the world — having the breadth of skills, the savoir-faire, to handle any situation you find yourself in. With that in mind, each Sunday we’ll be republishing one of the illustrated guides from our archives, so you can hone your manly know-how week by week.

A knife’s functionality is only as good as its maintenance. Although there are dozens of ways to sharpen knives, this basic technique goes a long way toward keeping your blade keen enough to do most jobs with ease. Sharp blades mean smoother cuts, which are safer because they require less force. You can find more details on knife sharpening here.

Like this illustrated guide? Then you’re going to love our book The Illustrated Art of Manliness! Pick up a copy on Amazon.

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

An important part of manhood has always been about having the competence to be effective in the world — having the breadth of skills, the savoir-faire, to handle any situation you find yourself in. With that in mind, each Sunday we’ll be republishing one of the illustrated guides from our archives, so you can hone your manly know-how week by week.

If you’re physically active, you’ve likely rolled an ankle now and again. Ankle sprains come in two types: an eversion, in which the ankle rolls outwards, and an inversion (by far the most common type), where your ankle rolls inwards. Either kind of sprain results in the painful stretching or tearing of ligaments. When you sprain an ankle, you should immediately ice it, compress it, and elevate it to reduce swelling and inflammation.

But when can you start walking or even running again after you’ve sprained an ankle? The answer varies depending on who you ask. Many physical therapists and sports doctors recommend that you don’t resume physical activity until your ankle no longer hurts when you take a step. Depending on the severity of the sprain, that could take weeks.

Other physical therapists and sports doctors suggest that movement may in fact speed the healing process, and that walking and even running can resume less than 24 hours after a sprain so long as the ankle is given support through proper taping. Taping limits the range of motion of your ankle, which reduces the chances of it spraining again, which allows you to continue to engage in physical activity while it heals. Taping also compresses the injured area, which helps reduce swelling and inflammation.

Sprains are rated as mild, moderate, or severe. With a mild sprain, the ligament has just been stretched. Your ankle feels stable when you put weight on it and just feels a little sore and stiff. With a moderate sprain, the ligament has torn a bit. Your ankle doesn’t feel entirely stable when you put weight on it, you can’t move it very much, and it’s swollen. With a severe sprain, the ligament has been completely torn. You can’t put any weight on it, can’t move it, and it hurts a ton. Taping an ankle to resume physical activity immediately after a sprain should only be reserved for mild to moderate sprains. For severe sprains, you need to stay off your ankle for a few weeks so that the torn ligament can heal. 

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

An important part of manhood has always been about having the competence to be effective in the world — having the breadth of skills, the savoir-faire, to handle any situation you find yourself in. With that in mind, each Sunday we’ll be republishing one of the illustrated guides from our archives, so you can hone your manly know-how week by week.

A man’s home is his castle and natural disasters are the closest thing to an attacking army. When mother nature chooses to exercise her power on your home, there’s little you can do to stop it, especially during storms that include high wind, like hurricanes. Flying debris and sudden powerful gusts can blow out windows, skylights, and sliding glass doors that spread broken glass throughout your home and let in rain, which can cause serious water damage. If you have time before the next big one hits, boarding up your windows properly can help alleviate some of the damage and halt the invasion.

Illustration by Ted Slampyak

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

An important part of manhood has always been about having the competence to be effective in the world — having the breadth of skills, the savoir-faire, to handle any situation you find yourself in. With that in mind, each Sunday we’ll be republishing one of the illustrated guides from our archives, so you can hone your manly know-how week by week.

First used as a necessary technique for pre-WWII clunky gear mechanisms, heel-toe shifting is largely unnecessary for daily drivers (if not impossible since most cars today have automatic transmissions!). Used mostly by motorsports professionals in high-octane cars and motorcycles, it’s not really something you need to learn unless, of course, you want to feel like a professional motorsports driver when you run to the store to get milk. In which case, you should absolutely learn how to do it.

The fancy footwork of heel-toe shifting does have a lot of benefits. It reduces stress on the transmission, keeps the weight of your vehicle balanced during gear changes, helps to prevent wheel lock, and allows smoother and more efficient acceleration around corners.

At its core, heel-toe shifting is a way of getting around the fact that we don’t have three legs. Utilized mostly when approaching corners, it’s used to match engine speed (RPMs) to road speed through gear changes.

When you approach a corner and apply the brake, your car slows down and engine speed drops. Coming out of the corner, to compensate for your reduced speed, you shift into a lower gear, but depressing the clutch only causes engine speed to drop faster. By the time you’re ready to release the clutch in 2nd gear, the engine is practically idling even though you’re still rolling along at a good clip. When you do release the clutch, the engine has to race to catch up with the rest of the car.

These big swings in engine speed vs. road speed are highly inefficient and make all the difference in high-end racing, where smooth acceleration around a corner is critical. Heel-toe shifting maintains engine speed so that it stays constant with your road speed, maximizing efficiency and power. To accomplish this, your brake foot rotates so that you can operate the throttle and the brake simultaneously during gear changes. Sound complicated? Follow the guide above, do some practicing, and you’ll have it down in no time. 

Like this illustrated guide? Then you’re going to love our book The Illustrated Art of Manliness! Pick up a copy on Amazon.

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

There you are, captured behind enemy lines, locked in a makeshift POW camp. Your only chance of escape? The M60 Patton tank sitting unguarded just beyond the fence. If you’re able to get inside it, would you be able to start it up and pilot the tank for a getaway?

While you might never find yourself needing to commandeer a tank for a daring escape, there’s something undeniably appealing about knowing how to operate one of these steel monsters. Tony Borglum, owner of Drive a Tank in Minnesota, has taught thousands of people the basics of tank operation, and in this illustrated guide, we’ll share his instructions for piloting an M60 Patton.

Why the M60 Patton?

Because it was so dang ubiquitous in the second half of the 20th century.

Most of us grew up playing with little green army men. That tank in your collection was almost certainly modeled after the M60 Patton. Named after one of America’s greatest tank strategists, General George Patton, the M60 was the backbone of American armored forces for decades after WWII. This 52-ton beast saw action from the Cold War through Desert Storm, earning its reputation as one of the most reliable tanks ever built.

Because we’re showing you how to drive an M60 Patton, we thought it only fitting to have Old Blood and Guts himself show you the ropes. 

Illustration by Ted Slampyak

Thanks to Tony at Drive a Tank for the tips!

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.